![]() (With the latest Reload, there is no wait, it should to start to flash (again this depends on your temps and humidity). If easy I'll do a larger swath, ensuring complete coverage. I'll spray onto the applicator and then apply it in a crisscross pattern, first in a small area to determine how it will come off. Ultima Autospa Microfiber Applicator, applicator pad Armed with two MF's at all times, and a Ultima MF Applicator: Also HW can augment the reset for lubricity purposes and $$$$$$$$ purposes.Īfter vehicle is washed and dried I get it into the shop and out of the sun. With that said, how I apply reload: Of course I do the normal wash routine, I'll mix the Hyper Wash and Reset, mainly to pickup some of the foaming qualities of HW, as Reset doesn't really foam up (unless using a pressure wash) for my pre-soak. I've tried to find it but just don't have time, perhaps Zack can. wrote a pretty amazing article a few years back on this. Beading alone (or lack of) will not be the only indicator of deterioration. With CQUK and constant outdoor activity (driving, weather, UV, harsh chemicals in road film) expect about 18 months before you see aspects of the coating deteriorate. The PH Levels look fairly on the alkaline side as Wristy has posted, anything over 7, is less acidic and leaning towards alkaline. There are occasions where I'll mix both HW and Reset in the bucket, and both in the foam gun. I exclusively use Hyperwash, Reset and Reload. I'm gonna see how CQUK performs by itself after the decon, just to satisfy my curiosity. That does sound like a really appealing option right now, I must admit. I was just so fixated on my issues with Reload, I never even thought about just leaving CQUK by itself. I'm embarrassed to say that I never even considered just leaving CQUK by itself. This does have me thinking though, some people said that CQUK is very strong by itself. I felt like if I did it for one more day, I'd drop dead from exhaustion. By the time I was done my second coating of CQUK, I told myself that I'd never do this again and get it done professionally next time. I have always done the Reload after a coating, but after 2-3 months I switch over to Hydro2, it makes it even easier.Man I felt the EXACT same way when I did my coating. After a month, it was polished and UK 3.0 applied. I bought an Impreza to go back and forth to work. I said when I was done I would never go through that process again. I spent a ton of time coating a 2016 Suburban in GM black. Once you get it all worked out and lived with it for a few years, going to a non coated car makes washes a pain. ![]() ![]() Just slapping a coating of collinite 845 and calling it a day sounds really nice about now haha. Man, all this is starting to make me question whether a ceramic coating was right for me. What do you guys think about using other products as toppers for coatings? There's loads out there that seem similiar in characteristics as Reload, but once again, it's just not in the family of CarPro products lol. I really really want to try and clay bar my car but I don't want to risk any marring to my coating. I never get dirty MF towels when I dry or apply reload, so I don't think it's my wash process, probably something else. The more you know! I agree that the surface is probably contaminated, so I'm gonna try the chemical decon first before I buy a bottle of Reset. Surfactants can run cheap and plenty, right up to advanced and costly.Oh that makes sense. You know colonel sanders? He has a surfactant as one of the 11. Give it a wash after and see how it turns out.Ĭompanies are only required to list they type of surfactant, not the actual surfactant as its part of what makes a “secret recipe”. Hell if you have an alright wash already and have some APC, run a weak APC pre-soak (10:1 minimum) and good pressure wash working from the bottom up (to not dilute product you want to dwell longer). I’m with the majority here, your surface isn’t clean enough and it’s affecting the reload queue bad hydrophobic performance.Ī solid wash and simple QD should bring back the performance of the coating. ![]()
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